Day 5 Patterdale - Shap GPS 70 miles

We set of on todays trek with the weather dry but overcast, The Patterdale to Shap stage is said to be the toughest stage on the Coast to Coast, not because it has the most miles but because of the terrain. Although we left the Lake District today, it doesn't give up without a fight. We can only  say it is the hardest day yet and we hope that tommorrow is not as hard even though it is a longer day at 20 miles ish.

We left Patterdale and almost immediately started a very long ascent  The views just got better as we climbed.

     here you can see Brothers Water

It didn't matter where you looked the scenery was breathtaking. 

Here we got talking to some walkers from the USA who took our justgiving address and promised to pay us $100 when they returned home. Not sure of the exchange rate but this is a fantastic guesture from a couple of strangers.

We reached Angle Tarn a beautiful lake

It was here where we had this photo taken by a couple who we had met earlier and they also were walking c2c. They were sisters we neve asked their names so called them 'double top' as they wore the same colour tops.

 From here the gradient levels off for a short while until another tough haul gets us huffing and puffing as we climb to The Knott, but the panoramic veiws make it all worth the effort.

 I never tire of the scenery here.

After the Knott who's very name exudes a hikers challenge we then reach a point on the ridge where we turn left, it is here we turn to go towards Kidsty Pike, the veiws of Haweswater and High Street are stunning and while admiring the grandure of the whole outlook we spotted the 'Double Top' walking towards the peak of High Strret a lovely mountain but visiting it would me a massive diversion for any coast to coast walker so we got their attention to the wrong turn they made with a whisle. They caught us up on the top of Kidsty Pike and thanked us while taking another photo for us.

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     On the summit of Kidsty it was a good ten degrees colder than the lower slopes.At his point we were at 2572ft. the highest point on the standard c2c route but we had been a lot higher by doing Helvellyn at 3113 ft yesterday. It was now just raining as we started our descent, what goes up must come down but this descent is much steeper than anyone would like and it really started to hurt our knees and feet, then the sun broke through  by the time we reach the Haweswater reservoir so we stopped here for lunch and to rest our feet.

We now have a four mile walk along the shores of Haweswater but a lakeside amble while spinning your dainty parasol it sadly is not, soon we are again panting like a hippo on a tread mill high above the shore.

Eventually after what seemed for ever we left the reservoir and we were out of the Lake district. We were a little upset that our journey across the lakes had finished because it is the most beautiful place but we will not miss the hard work involved in some of the climbs. 

The topography was now more of rolling hills than mountains.

 We passed over Rosgilll Bridge and just after Kirsty mentions she would love a Coke we had a total surprise in finding this.

     Wouldn't be there long in the                             Midlands!!!!!

We passed over a gate on top of a wall

          "why put that there?'

Eventually we trudged on past the ruins of Shap Abbey and on to Shap

On reaching Shap we were getting very, very tired but we had not realised we had a B&B  1 1/2 miles down the Main Street of Shap. We then had to walk back later to find a pub to eat in, for our evening meal.

Well we have 20+ miles to go to Kirby Stephen tomorrow so I must get some sleep. We have taken over a hundred photos each day  and to sort just a few out seems to take an age.

I must post this last photo as Andy Chales has promised to pay us 5 pounds for every bed Jane does not make. It is a long story but Jane will not leave a B&B without making the bed so this will be hard. We even explained this to the last owner and he laughed making the comment that she is mad no one makes the bed when they leave so for a fiver here it is.

Good night al land please keep the comments and donations coming it does drive us on.

Day 4 Grasmere to Patterdale. GPS reads 52 mles

Today we start with the weather looking grim. This is meant to have  been an easier day but, in the spirit of a charity walk, we made it very challenging. We leave Grasmere valley at the mill bridge  we go up a lane  then climbed by a wooded beck to a confluence of streams at the bottom of Great Tongue. By this time the weather was now light rain and the prospect in front of us was shrouded in low cloud.

Half way up we met the Americans who had kindly donated previously.

The Bridle way soon divides at Great Tongue where we took the route along side Tounge Gill crossing many streams. We were now in the clouds and very wet with little visability but again the  view down the valley back to Grasmere was better.

After walking through very wet  mist we reached the top of Great Tongue then dropped down  slightly and  the Grisedale tarn appeared.

 at the end of the tarn we could see the path to Dollywaggon  Pike.

It had been a steep climb to here but now we must decide on our route to Patterdale. We had three choices of route the first was a direct easy route dow n the valley but this was our shortest day on the whole walk so why not take a challenge, so as we originally promised our sponsors we took the hardest high level route via Hevellyn & Striding Edge. Helvellyn at 3113 ft is the third highest peak in England and the highest point on our coast to coast. The Climb is ardous and it was very steep and misty.

We eventually reached the summiit where we sat at a shelter to eat lunch and met four Liverpudlians, we started talking footie and had a great laugh dispite the wind, rain and cold.they sponsored us as we went on our way, so thanks to the Everton fans for the kind donations.

        Eating Lunch on the summit of Helvellyn

From here we have a nerve tingling drop on a crumbling slope above red tarn followed by a bit of mountain climbing to get to Striding Edge.

       This is not an easy walk

      The last drop down to Striding Edge    

Striiding edge ridge is a knife edge walk where the memorial plaque to Robert Dixon who was kiled here does little to calm the nerves.

This requires a steady head as we decided again to take the hardest route along the top of the edge with huge drops either side.

 This picture shows you a close up of Kirsty calmly walking the edge. If you want to see the edge from the distance here is a picture of it, taken another day, without the mist we had today.

If you look at this picture and then scale it with the picture of Kirsty you will get a small insight of the task we took on.

As we dropped down from the Edge we emerged below the cloud level and at last we had some views and we were now in the dry.

Our days destination was now in sight and it was all down hill.

After a long steep stretch down hill that once again reduces our feet and knees to screaming mode we took a short path towards Patterdale which is dominated on one side by the rugged mountain wall of the Helvellyn range we just scrambled across and the steep flanks of place fell, with, between them, the loveliestof lakes, Ullswater

                                                                                              Ullswater from the path to Patterdale          

We finally got to our B&B the Old Water view, what a fantastic place, we were met by the owner Ian and promptly shown our room which was the room Alfred Wainwright used to stay in.

A brilliant surprise and a superb room.

 One ofthe lovely personal touches at the B&B  This  teddy was perched on our bed (note the chocs).

We made this our shortest day a tough but enjoyable one (its a challenge so can't have an easy day).

We now have to rest as the next two days are possible the hardest we will encounter.

Janes knee has stood up to the punishment well today so fingers crossed we make it all the way.

Loving all the comments so thank you all kep it up.

Sorry for the late blog but we have had a fantastic night in the private bar :)

 

Day 3 - Seatoller - Grasmere. GPS Reads 41 miles

We set of today with the weather not looking good, it was light rain with the forecast for a showery day but possible improvrement late afternoon. We started with an easy stroll to the river Derwent where provided chains along the riocks were a helping hand.

 From here we passed through the village of Longthwaite and then Rosthwaite, where we came across an interestingly named cafe.

 We escape Rosthwaite by a pleasant walk along stonetwaite Beck then head up Greenup valley. This valley was a steady climb and it was here the weather started to deteriate. The view up towards our route looked daunting and wet.

 

the view backwards seemed better.

The view west was of the looming presence  Eagle crag in the mist.

We then had a straight foward but steep climb up to and past Lining Crag where we could look over Drumlin basin.

 Here the mist really closed in and there was no visabilty whatsoever.

Kirsty and Jane at Lining crag nothing to admire!!

We now head on up to the broad col of Greenup Edge. This next section is where many people lose their way and in the mist it is particularly awkward to navicate but our experiance of Dartmoor in the mist proved valuable and we found our way with care. From here we commence across the head of Wythburn Valley. It was here, as we were contempating taking the easier route to Grasmere due to the visability, as if by magic the cloud lifted and we had a stunning view down the valley.

So, although we had already done a good amount of ascent we decided to take the significantly more demanding high route back to Grasmere. This provided us we some breathtaking views but jane was suffering by the end with a very painful knee.

The first peak we visited was Calf crag at 1.800 feet and we were able to get this photo.

We then have a tough udulating ridge walk with difficult under foot conditions.

                All long this ridge

     stepping stones through a peat bog.

Next we visit the top of Moment crag with great views of Grasmere then on to Gibson Knott. this route is a long walk with rocky steps and bogs (as above) and it was a lot longer than we expected. but the 360 degree stunning views including tomorrows target of Helvellyn made it worth the effort.

At Helm Grag the view to todays destination gave us a boost.

So with our feet screaming for a rest and legs like jelly we made our way  down the steep descnt to the outskirts of Grasmere and then the short walk to our B&B to finish a tough but fantastic day.

Thank You for all your encouraging comments so far they really do help us find the energy to do this.

Day 2 - Ennerdale - Seatoller (Borrowdale) GPS 30 miles so far

Well! where do I start, we stopped  at the Shepards arms in Ennerdale last night and they were great hosts..

Today has been the perfect Birthday I was treated to a surprise at breakfast,we walked into the breakfast room at the Shepard Arms and a table with birthday banners and cards were waiting for me. After breakfast I had a special plate brought in by the shef, this was bacon, mushroom, tomato, black pudding and sausage in the shape of a face with a candle in the nose. this was due to Andy and Maggie sending a card and birthday message to the Pub.

   We had a donation from guests of the pub, from USA (thanks Kate) to the charity. 

So off we march and it is just over a mile of road walkinging from Ennerdale Bridge to Ennerdale Water- The views towards the fells from here are quite dramatic.

The Coast to coast route hugs the right hand side of the lake and it is not what you expect, just a walk around the lake? no this is a very rocky uneven path that undulates for 3.5 miles.

Thers is one awkward section of rock climing at a place called Robin Hoods Chair

        Not what you expect!!

Close to here another couple put a tenner in our charity box.

Reaching the end of the lake with the crossing of the river Lisa

                      River Lisa

 The walk enters a new stage. We begin the 4 mile trudge, in hot sun, along the forest road to the back sail Hostel an old bothy hut in the middle of a dramatic Lakeland Scenery.

Our firstsighting of Black Sail is a welcome sight.

    You can just see Black Sail on the Left          by the tree.

Black sail is the most remote YHA in England. It must be the most idylic hostel of its kind but when we arrived no one was about.. It is an ideal position for exploring Pillar, Kirk Fell, Great Gable and the ridge running from Red Pike to Haystacks all in close proximity. Here we had lunch and then the hard work was to begin. We now had a very hard and lond steep climb ahead of us It started OK with a gentle fellside traverse. Then after crossing Loft Beck, which after a dry  spell was quite easy, we climbed up a path on the right hand side of the beck. It was steep so steep we were gasping and while my body was trying to take every gasp of air in my mind I was cursing AW thinking he was a masochist in disguse.

     Looking up loft  Beck the picture does not show how steep it is

Jane half way up, for perspective can you see the walkers at the bottom?

The view at the top of Loft Beck are superb  with Haystacks and Butternere prominent.

There then began the long descent to the  Honister Slate Mine passing Drum House and following the old tramway.

At the honister mine another couple of walkers , Dave and Sandra, who we met by the start sign on the first day, caught up with us and passed us a cheque for 50 pounds for the charity, we can not believe strangers can be so generous. 

We shall not be update the justgiving site until we are home but with ten more pounde from another couple of walkers we now have £4,700.

From the slate mines it was a short walk down hill to seastoller where our B&B was and another surprise, a bottle of champagne from my sister and her partner waiting for us, then at tea a surprise visit from Andy and Maggie.

Lots of cards to open with loads of pressies from my lovely daughter Kirsty and two bottles of wine left for us by Faith and Mason. This has been a super day. Fantastic scenery and weather lots of money donated and just fantastic people around.